Building a stream for your water feature or pond is not an unmanageable task. A project like this requires the basic understanding of a couple of fundamental rules, attention to detail, and a touch of creativity! Come along now for one way of creating a stream that will flow into a existing small goldfish pond. (Be sure to bookmark this page for future reference.)
The Plan: Create a stream that will come off of the deck and flow into a existing goldfish pond.
The end result: A beautiful new addition to Phil's backyard that he and the family can enjoy for years to come.
Getting your vision to come to fruition takes some pre-planning. This is where some simple sketches can help you better visualize how you want the area to look with the new watercourse. You can use spray-paint to outline the general run of the stream or lay out a garden hose for the same effect.
The Plan: Create a stream that will come off of the deck and flow into a existing goldfish pond.
The end result: A beautiful new addition to Phil's backyard that he and the family can enjoy for years to come.
Getting your vision to come to fruition takes some pre-planning. This is where some simple sketches can help you better visualize how you want the area to look with the new watercourse. You can use spray-paint to outline the general run of the stream or lay out a garden hose for the same effect.
Begin to play with curves and straight runs. Measure out distance for length of pvc pipe/tubing needed to carry water from the end destination point back to the top of the water course. Measure areas for liner needed. Take into account how high you want to make the walls of the stream. Are you using large chunk limestone with average thickness of 8 inches or smaller slate stone stacked at average 2 inch thickness?
Begin to think of how much stone material is needed to complete the project. I enjoy working with the folks at Keller Material. If unsure about the yards of gravel or pallets needed of building stone, contact them for advice. (They now have two locations. Check their webpage for directions and contact information.)
Begin to think of how much stone material is needed to complete the project. I enjoy working with the folks at Keller Material. If unsure about the yards of gravel or pallets needed of building stone, contact them for advice. (They now have two locations. Check their webpage for directions and contact information.)
Since I'm the camera man in these shots, you won't see me, but plenty of Phil. I assure you I worked just as hard if not but to dictate rock placement from my chair in the shade while sipping cold water and babbling about world events! haha Just kidding... I did help as well. Someone had to keep up the progressive picture taking.
Phil had already prepped the site area. He had removed almost half the deck to increase the area between current deck and pond. (22 feet) Before, deck and steps came within little more than 5 feet of the goldfish pond.
Phil, knowing better than to battle Texas Caliche soil, rented a trencher and trenched a line sloping down and away from the area so we could run 2 inch pipe to accommodate a drain in the barrel filter fit under the deck. A clever "trap door" lid made of same wood as deck will be set on hinges to access filter barrel.
Phil had already prepped the site area. He had removed almost half the deck to increase the area between current deck and pond. (22 feet) Before, deck and steps came within little more than 5 feet of the goldfish pond.
Phil, knowing better than to battle Texas Caliche soil, rented a trencher and trenched a line sloping down and away from the area so we could run 2 inch pipe to accommodate a drain in the barrel filter fit under the deck. A clever "trap door" lid made of same wood as deck will be set on hinges to access filter barrel.
Here you can see the deck cut back and removed. The cut out area is where the filter will be recessed to fit snug and level under the deck. The 55 gallon plastic barrel, and the Evil Blue Wheelbarrow from Hell! (or so says my back)
Trench line leading away from the site. We measured the amount of 2 inch pipe needed and began to prime and glue the pipe together.
Putting the pipe together outside the deep trench is easier. 22 degree joints were best in this situation.
Phil seen here either tamping the base for the barrel down... or maybe just screwing around.
Filling the trench in. All that dirt burying the pipe. So nice not to be tripping over that anymore. Anyone seen my cell phone?
The 55 gallon barrel is 36 inches high. It's sunk into the ground about 17 inches. Since the valve is so deep, I chose a pull up handle on a Knife valve rather than a Ball valve. This way, a long stick with a 2-prong catch could be used to reach down and pull open the valve. Both are water tight as long as you flush cleaner water through after each use so as not to gum up the seals and cause leaks.
Uniseal
DAY 2
Today we began with the barrel filter. I opted to use uniseals for these rounded barrel applications. I don't fully trust bulkheads on barrels, and even though unseals can be tough to push pipe through, they are worth the effort.
A uniseal is nothing more than a rubber grommet. They come in all sizes for pvc pipe, and can be found here: This is what they look like:
Today we began with the barrel filter. I opted to use uniseals for these rounded barrel applications. I don't fully trust bulkheads on barrels, and even though unseals can be tough to push pipe through, they are worth the effort.
A uniseal is nothing more than a rubber grommet. They come in all sizes for pvc pipe, and can be found here: This is what they look like:
uniseal demonstration
You cut a hole 1 inch larger than the pipe you are running, insert the uniseal into the hole, then push your pvc through the uniseal. The uniseal is slightly smaller than the pipe. As the pipe goes through uniseal, it squeezes the uniseal against the pipe and the wall of your barrel, skimmer container, bio falls container, etc. (In this photo the paper represents the wall of your container.)
bulkhead separate
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bulkhead together
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You could also use bulkheads. Bulkheads are two plastic pieces that screw together and compress the material you are making a hole through. It sandwiches the liner or container wall between the two parts for a "compression seal"
I began by using a 2.5 inch hole saw bit to cut a hole for the my 1.5 inch inflow pipe. I then pushed the uniseal into the side of the barrel, lubricated with some dish washing liquid and pushed the flex pipe through.
In this pic the unseal for the bottom drain is already in place with the bottom 2 inch pipe sitting flush with the seal.
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Next came the 4 inch outflow pipe near the top! Trick: use plenty of slippery liquid soap and bevel the edge with a sander bit on a Dremel tool. When pushing the pipe through the uniseal, use a block of wood to distribute even, strong pressure. It's tough at first... but you can do it!!
beveling the edge
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All three lines in place
Next we buried the inflow flex pvc pipe from the pump up to the barrel filter.
At the point I knew the pipe would run 6 inches under the flower bed, I placed broken white flagstone over the pipe. This way.. should you dig too deep, your shovel will hit the odd placed flagstone, alerting you to the danger of severing the pipe below!
The vertical board that runs beside the deck with the 4 inch outflow pipe protruding from it is to prevent back fill dirt from being lost under the deck.
The vertical board that runs beside the deck with the 4 inch outflow pipe protruding from it is to prevent back fill dirt from being lost under the deck.
Now it's time to mark out the stream coarse! We used yellow spray paint to get a idea and feel for the run. Began to make steps and elevations out of dirt to create pools and falls.
Laying down the liner. We used soft topsoil (being careful no rocks were mixed in) so no preliner used. If we needed one, I would have used old carpet. Just make sure to remove carpet tacks.
Where the 4 inch overflow outflow pipe meets liner, I cut an X through the liner. I then squeezed the pipe through it, took an extra 1 inch 45 mil band of rubber to cushion between the liner and the metal hose clamp, and tightened it down. ta daaaaaaa! Thanks Greg Bikal for the pipe boot idea! Leak free!
Here comes the rocks ....... ohh yeahhh.. and the backpain! Where's the ADVIL!Moss rock! Beautiful rock with mosses and lichen.
When positioning your rocks, alternate between your flat and roundish, stagger them, slant them in some places, or leaning on one another. It should look like time has settled them.. made them lean and fall, some exposed, some recessed. Sprinkle both large and small grade pebbles and rocks where the liner is exposed.
I would create an OUTER moss rock wall... have the liner come up the rock.. then put an INNER moss rock wall and sandwich the liner in between. That way-- you see no black liner wall on the inside of your stream.
Place some rocks right in the middle of the stream for the water to run around. Make "pinch points" in the stream run where water will come together.
I would create an OUTER moss rock wall... have the liner come up the rock.. then put an INNER moss rock wall and sandwich the liner in between. That way-- you see no black liner wall on the inside of your stream.
Place some rocks right in the middle of the stream for the water to run around. Make "pinch points" in the stream run where water will come together.
To hide all the liner, use an outer rock layer and a inner rock layer and sandwich the liner in between the two.
Or if you're planting a bed right up against the stream about the same height as the inner rock, you could sandwich the liner between the inner rock layer and the wall of dirt the planting bed creates as it butts up against the side of the stream.
Or if you're planting a bed right up against the stream about the same height as the inner rock, you could sandwich the liner between the inner rock layer and the wall of dirt the planting bed creates as it butts up against the side of the stream.
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I do not foam under the gravel of the stream bed. I only foam where the spill way rocks are. To effectively create pools of water along the stream coarse, an effective "dam" effect must take place at the spillway. Foam is essential in preventing water from "slipping" under that rock.
And here comes the stickiest, nastiest, most awful stuff to come across your hands (nooooooo not the jelly donut your 3 year old handed to you off the floor) I'm talking about Great Stuff(tm)! Great Stuff(tm) can be found at any home improvement store. It's an expandable foam that helps seal all kinds of things around the house. Crevices in walls, around electrical outlets, breaks in mortar. Anything that has a gap that needs filling. It's wonderful to use in pond applications as it's cheap, readily available, easy to use, safe for fish, fills in all kinds of crevices, expands three times its bead size, and helps force water over rock, maximizing your waterfall or stream flow. |
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Only thing is.... try and keep it off your hands. It's hell trying to get it off. I've resorted to sand paper! (yikes!)
Not gasoline, not nail polish, none of the usual stuff will help much to remove it.
Foam up under the rocks near the falls, follow up with small gravel to help hide and camouflage it as it expands. Sprinkle sand or dirt on the rest of it to hide it as it dries. Go slow and steady continuing these steps. You should see no yellow.
Not gasoline, not nail polish, none of the usual stuff will help much to remove it.
Foam up under the rocks near the falls, follow up with small gravel to help hide and camouflage it as it expands. Sprinkle sand or dirt on the rest of it to hide it as it dries. Go slow and steady continuing these steps. You should see no yellow.
DAY 3
Today we continued rock work for the planting beds. One situated up against the house, and the other on the right side of the stream.
Eager to see the massive 600 lb+ boulder we selected as a sitting rock, we prepped the area, and after a quite a few expletives (mainly from me), a couple of stubbed fingers, and buckets of sweat, we finagled it into position.
Today we continued rock work for the planting beds. One situated up against the house, and the other on the right side of the stream.
Eager to see the massive 600 lb+ boulder we selected as a sitting rock, we prepped the area, and after a quite a few expletives (mainly from me), a couple of stubbed fingers, and buckets of sweat, we finagled it into position.
Getting ready
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The Boulder is IN!!
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Now my idea for the waterfall part was to take a bucket and plumb the incoming water into it. I would create a weir area out of a flat piece of flag stone. I foamed this rock into position. On the inside I used a larger rock to brace the inside portion of the weir rock.
I used a 1.5 thread to slip pvc connection to a 90 bend pvc joint out of the bucket. Why the bucket? Well, I don't like to just simply throw the pipe or hose of water behind rock and let er' rip. You really have to work with getting a nice even distribution of the water, and if it is really flowing, the water shoots right off the rock like a ramp, and kills the look. By having the water pool first-- you slow down the fast flow and can create a nice even spill off a weir rock. |
Concrete footer to stabilize the bucket and keep it level
Building the rock around the bucket to hide it, I foam as I go. Using gravel to fill in large holes, then coming back with foam to congest that area, and push the water OVER. Always think where the water will run and foam accordingly. Splash dirt and gravel on foam that is visible to hide it. No one likes to see nasty yellow-orange foam Keep buckets of small gravel, larger gravel, and sand or dirt nearby so you can quickly grab what you need and apply it to the foam quickly.
In this shot, I've connected the incoming water flex pvc to a small section of pvc pipe and into the bucket.
All done. Blue arrows are water flow I was hoping to achieve in building with the rocks and their placement.
Here you can see some open gaps in the waterfall. These I left to look open and natural. I did not have to fill and foam them because the water from the falls would not run in those area and escape between rock and liner.
Gravel goes into the stream bed
Just a small pre-rinse, falls are done and foam is cured which takes about 2 or 3 hours in hot afternoon sun. To make sure your foam is well cured, stick a screw driver or other semi-sharp object into it like you would a cake. If you pull out GOO, it's not ready. If it is all dry, it's cured all the way through.
Now since the gravel or moss rock was properly rinsed and cleaned, I proposed we put in just enough water to wash off the gravel and rocks, allowing the pump to run and look for areas that might be low or need tweaking. We would then drain this dirty water and fill with clean new water, run the pump and add fish!
Here comes the water! Perfect flow with the 4000 gal pump pushing against 24 feet of pipe run and 23 inches of vertical head. Remember, we are also feeding the waterfall off the pump as well. The ball valves to control flow between the two came in handy!
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Phil and wife Amy come out to take a look.
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Granddaughter Anna comes for a photo-op on the "step across" rock
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Neighbor Cathy: "The sound changes from every angle! I love it!"
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Close-ups of upper portion of falls. The rocks askew within the water flow create natural eddies and breakwaters. The sloping water course steps look like rocks naturally worn away by years of erosion.
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Last day on the project!
An exciting one, as the fish can go back to their new improved home and I can go out and party at night without GreatStuf stuck to my hands!?!
We installed the floor scrubber pads in the barrel filter. They rest on a "table" made from 1/2inch pcv pipe. I used those 3 slip fit couplers to create a joined "square" of pvc and then added legs to it out of pvc. Since the barrel is 24 inches in diameter, I chose 24 inch floor scubbers - perfect fit!
An exciting one, as the fish can go back to their new improved home and I can go out and party at night without GreatStuf stuck to my hands!?!
We installed the floor scrubber pads in the barrel filter. They rest on a "table" made from 1/2inch pcv pipe. I used those 3 slip fit couplers to create a joined "square" of pvc and then added legs to it out of pvc. Since the barrel is 24 inches in diameter, I chose 24 inch floor scubbers - perfect fit!
Meanwhile, Phil was busy securing rock around the base of a newly added Umbrella Palm. We added some moss rock around the pump to disguise it as well.**Notice the check valve. Placed near the pump for easy maintenance, being underwater it will algae up and be hard to see.
Brought over the water meter for an accurate measurement on how many gallons this pond would hold. I figured 580-630. It came out to 711 gallons including stream and barrel filter. Lilly pots added back in to the deeper pond, bet the fish will like that as well.
Carlos Flannery
